Empennage Completion... CHECK!

Hi Gang! Over the last two days I've been working to finish the empennage. By finishing the second elevator trim tab today, I've completed all the metal parts of the emp. I still have some fiberglass to do which will probably be done towards the end of building and before paint. I'll have to go back to torque a few things and put torque seal on the nuts. I may have to work with the counterbalance weights to get the balance of the elevators right. They seem fine now but we'll see how they do after all fiberglass work and paint is done.

I learned a little tip tonight by experimenting with needing to dimple a hole that was very hard to get to. First, I inserted a block of wood under the hole that needed dimpling. Next, I drilled a #40 hole into the wood. Second, I took the block out and gave it a little camfer to the hole with a deburring tool. Third, I took the block and re-inserted it under the hole, then took the dimple die and inserted it into the hole then hit it a couple good whacks with a ball peen hammer. It's not identical to a normal dimple but it worked pretty well. The reason for this process is that the back side of any of the dies I had, including the pop rivet die, would have interfered with the inner tabs that fold down and damaged one. Below are the pictures showing the steps I used and a couple showing the comparison of both trim tabs. I'm pretty happy with how the second one turned out. I think it's much cleaner. Remember, you can click any of the pictures to enlarge them. :)

Setting Blocks for Drilling/Dimpling

Hole Drilled Into the Block

A Little Countersink with the Deburr Tool

A Couple Whacks with a Hammer and ....

VOILA! A Dimpled Hole

Top is the First Tab, Bottom is the Second.
The Back Side was Actually worse on the First.

I'm now ready to call one of the EAA chapter tech counselors to take a look at my work and give me either a thumbs-up or a list of things to fine tune, fix, clean up or repair. We'll see how that goes and I'll keep you posted on that report.

I recently purchased and received the parts for the RV-7 Service Bulletin 14-01-31. In the empennage, more specifically, the horizontal stabilizer (HS) some builders/owners have shown an area on the that has exhibited cracking. A service bulletin came out warning of the issue and a kit was made by Van's to repair the issue for those that are already flying or currently building. It's about $15 +shipping. For those that are building, this can be used to repair the are of potential cracking they might currently have, which I would guess is doubtful, or they can use it in the future, should any cracks show up. I am going to repair mine before completing my plane as I'd like to have the corrections made before they even have a chance to happen. Right? It makes better sense to repair now so you wouldn't have to disassemble your plane in the future. This will save a lot of time and give me a greater feeling of safety and security. I'll probably save this little project for sometime when I have any lulls in the project. I think it'll make good filler.

Van's RV-7(A) HS Repair Kit
Service Bulletin 14-01-31

Here's a glamour shot of the completion of my empennage and me in the picture to let you know who the builder of this project is.

So Relieved to Have This Kit Finished! Wings Next

That's all for now. Take Care and Thanks For Reading!!

Day Total: 2.6 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 160.9 hrs

Let's Get This Thing Going!

Hi Gang! I'm finally back at it after much procrastination. I had previously spent about an hour working on the elevator in preparation of getting it welded, as mentioned previously.

I discovered that a friend of mine at work is a skilled welder. I got in touch with him and asked if he could weld some airplane parts. He asked when I wanted to do it and what kind of metal he needed to weld. I asked what kind of liquid payment ;) he would like and we hooked up and got it done. Thanks Mike! I've been waiting for a good time to start back up and now seemed as good a time as any. I didn't get any pictures of the welds before cleaning and filing.

Today I cleaned up the welds on the fills Mike did for me. I needed to file down the excess weld material to get them back to smooth and flat. After the filing, I cleaned up the surrounding area of powder coat that was damaged by the heat of the welding with a ScotchBrite wheel in my Dremel. All pretty now.

Weld Filled Hole After Filing & Cleaning

Back Side

Next was to make sure my rod bearings were the exact height they needed to be. I think I took care of this previously as when I checked the bearings on both elevators, the height measured right on all 4. I mounted them both, set them in trail with the HS then eyeballed how the 1/4" bold would appear to fit and it looked good. So I took the right elevator off, put the drill sleeve into the hinge bearing and drilled a #40. So far, so good. I took the left elevator and put the right one on and did the same thing. Off with that one and put the HS away so I could work with the elevator horn holes. This is the same procedure as mentioned in a previous post. Just size the holes up with each successive drill bit until it's 1/4". I cleaned the holes with a half round file so a bolt would slide easily and cleaned the surrounding area of any sharp metal. I put both elevators back on and put the bolt in and VOILA! Everything fits & both elevators line up perfectly. Nice smooth movement with no binding. They seem pretty balanced right now. I still need to file the counterweights to the right shape so we'll see how the balance is later. I'm very happy with this.

NOTE: I strongly recommend to the builders out there that are at this point and before drilling to check carefully to see if your bolt appears that it will fit WITHOUT the bolt head and nut being to close to or interfering with the torque tubes. If it looks too close, recheck your measurements on the rod bearings.

The Line Up & Clearance After Installation

After taking everything apart, I then started working to finish the 2nd trim tab that I had ordered awhile back and had just started. I'm about half done with it now. I'm almost to the riveting stage. Just finished the countersinking in the trim spar. I'll pick up there next time.

That's all for now. Take Care and Thanks For Reading!!

Day Total: 3.9 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 158.3 hrs

Still on the Empennage

Hi Gang! Yep, I'm still working the empennage. I never made it out to the welder to have my elevators' holes welded. I just can't afford it right now. Yep, money is that tight.

 

In the meantime, I decided to start working on the replacement trim tab. It's the same steps as before, but this time, I followed the plans more precisely. This time, I scuffed, cleaned and primed the areas where the end tabs will be bent as well as where the spar sits. I clecoed the bottom of the spar to the bottom of the tab skin and also put the trim tab control horn in place as well. I used the 2 horn pieces that came with the kit originally. Those have to be trimmed down a bit as there is a little extra on them. That's if you're using the manual trim I believe. Anyway, I match drilled all the holes on the bottom. Next I will remove the old trim tab from the left elevator and use the hinge as a guide for cutting the new hinge. I'll keep the old tab for a replacement, if I were to ever need it in the future. It's not in bad shape, it's just not perfect! Haha. I'm stopping here for tonight so I can get ready for the work week. No pix as it's the same stuff. I just hope this one turns out better.

Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 2.4  HOBBS Meter - 154.4

The Elevator that Won't Go Away...

Friday, August 16, 2013

I successfully rolled the leading edge of the right elevator today. It's similar to the rudder and left elevator. I'm pleased. I got all the rod end bearings set to 13/16" and torqued the stop nuts.

The next step was to install the elevators then trim the area of the HS skin where the counterweights need to travel through. Both sides of the HS skin, where the counterweight swings through, extend to a point where they don't allow the swinging action of the elevator to travel. This is inherent in the stamping of the aluminum from Van's. Here are some step-by-step pictures of the process to illustrate more clearly.   

HS Skin Interfering with Counterbalance Arm

Measuring to Clear Material for CB Arm

Material to Bottom Left is to be Removed

Starter Hole for Inside Radius

Hole Enlarged to Final Size for Inside Radius

First Cut. Leave a Little Material so You Can File it
to Where You Want the Edge Exactly

Second Cut & After Cleaning & Rounding Edges

After the Elevator is Installed, This is How It Should Swing

Another Shot Looking Straight Down

This needed to be done in 4 places, top left and right, then bottom left and right. First I needed to measure about 1/8" past the counterweight on the HS skin. Then I extended the line of the outboard edge of the HS skin. Once those two lines were drawn, I needed to set my radius for the inboard and outboard of the cuts. Next, I used snips to cut the excess metal away then file to break the edges and round the inside and outside corners. One down, three to go. Next, I remounted the left elevator to begin the process of setting the elevator "in trail". This means the elevator needs to be a perfect extension of the horizontal stabilizer and at a 0° up and down angle, nothing more. Here, I wanted the counterbalance arm to be even with the HS. I used a simple ratchet clamp to hold it in position. This is where I need the rod end bearings to be exact to the plans so the elevator horn sits exactly where it's supposed to, in conjunction with the opposite elevator and the elevator hinge bearing. If one bearing is not exact to the rest, the horn will sit in or out too far and won't line up properly and I could end up having my controls bind because they aren't in perfect alignment with each other. The measurement of the rod end bearings is 13/16" (7/8" Max). This measurement is from the elevator spar up to the middle of the eye of the rod bearing. Next, I needed to fabricate a bushing which would allow me to drill a hole in the elevator horn through the elevator hinge bearing. A bushing prevents the drill bit from enlarging or marring the hinge bearing. I wasn't able to find anything in my garage so off to Lowes to look for something that would work. I've seen a lot of builders us a drill bushing with a 1/4" outside diameter (OD) and 3/32" inside diameter (ID) purchased from McMaster-Carr. That's okay, if you're not on a budget. That little gem costs a little over $8, not including tax and shipping! I ended up at Home Depot in the specialty hardware drawer section (I couldn't find anything to suit at Lowes). I picked up a 1/4" OD x 3/16" ID aluminum bushing for 95¢, including tax, which will work perfectly. Because the hinge bearing is a hair under 1/4", I needed to turn the aluminum bushing on the ScotchBrite wheel a bit so it would fit. With that accomplished, I was ready to go with drilling.

The Bushing I Purchased From Home Depot
1/4" OD x 3/16" ID

Bushing in Place Ready for Drilling, But Not Yet!

I stopped here as somehow, I either misplaced my AN4-14A bold or I didn't pay attention to my inventory, noting that I received an AN3-14A bolt. This is a note for you future and current builders out there: KNOW YOUR HARDWARE SIZES! Because I was so new to this, I wasn't paying attention to my empennage inventory and making sure the bolt size corresponded with the inventory sheet. Without measuring and as far as I knew, the bolt LOOKED liked an AN4-14A bolt, but alas, it was not. Know the difference between and AN3 and an AN4 bolt. AN3 is 3/16" and  AN4 is 4/16" or 1/4" when you do the math. Needless to say, I need to order a bolt from Van's. No, I won't just order a bolt. That would be WAY too expensive after tax and shipping. I will also order the parts to make another trim tab. YES, I know what I said earlier, "It's just a trim tab people!". Well, I'm a perfectionist too. It looks ugly and I want to replace it. I'll consider this one practice.

Day Total: 3.6 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 148.5 hrs

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Today, I re-measured the rod end bearings to make sure I had everything lined up right. Measure twice (or 50 times), cut once. Right?! I'm waiting until Monday to order my bolt and trim tab parts and receive the order before I start drilling as I want to have the item in hand that needs to fit after drilling.

Day Total: .6 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 149.1 hrs

Monday, August 19, 2013

I placed my order today to Van's for the AN4-14A bolt along with my trim tab replacement parts.

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

I received my Van's order today! =8^)  I plan to get to work and finish the empennage Saturday. I'm anxious to put this behind me and get started on the wings!

Trim Tab Replacement Parts

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Drilling! So, today I inserted the aluminum bushing into the elevator hinge bearing and went with the #27 drill bit (9/64") to start drilling the left elevator first. It looked like it went well so I took the left elevator off and installed the right one and continued to drill. Next, I used progressively larger bits until 1/4" was achieved. That done, I cleaned the holes then installed both elevators and went to install the AN4-14A bolt. Here's where things go awry. When installing the bolt, I realized that I achieved what many builders before me have accomplished, my holes are too close to the torque tube!

Bolt Shown Too Close to Torque Tube & Bolt Head
Filed Down to Fit in the Area Provided

I tried to do what others had done and that was to grind down one of the facets of the bolt head so it would sit close to the torque tube and still fit straight through the hole. It was very close, but it worked. Next was to see the fitment of the nut to the bolt. NO GO! Dammit! This hole seemed to be way too close. I couldn't even begin to thread the nut onto the bolt. Okay, my mind goes into overdrive here trying to figure out what my options are. I'm seeing dollar signs flying around with replacing the horns and all the work that is entailed with removing rivets... AAGGHHH!! Okay, 1) I can try filling with J-B Weld and try re-drilling. 2) I can get new parts and partially disassemble the elevators. 3) I can take the elevators to a professional welder and have the holes filled, grind them flat and try again. I opted for option 1. So I put a piece of packing tape on the outboard sides of the horns then stood them up vertically. I mixed some J-B Weld and dripped it into the holes. I let that cure overnight.

Hole Filled with J-B Weld. Hope This Works!

Day Total: 1.1 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 150.2 hrs

Wednesday, August 28, 2013
 Okay, the J-B Weld is more than cured by now so I decided to try drilling again. This time I made a jig, of sorts, by taking 2 pieces of angle aluminum and cutting them to about 1½" then marking 7/8" up from the bottom and drilling a 1/4" hole on each. My plan, which I'd read on another builder's site, was to stand the angles on each side of the rod bearing, adjust the rod bearings to 7/8" then trying a bolt through the whole shootin' match to get all the bearings consistent. The angle simulated the hinge brackets on the HS although, they would be standing from the elevator spar instead. 13/16" didn't seem to work well for me previously so I took the 7/8" max. measurement and used that as my mark. After getting all the rod bearings adjusted and set, I commenced drilling, AGAIN!

A note here: I did some research on what other builders have experienced on this task. Some do it the first time successfully and others seem to struggle quite a bit, like I am. Measuring the rod bearings seems to be a chore in some ways. The bearing in the middle rotates around making it difficult to get exactly straight. I did the eyeball method but that didn't seem to work very well for me. Others comment that consistency is difficult to achieve. I realized that 1/2 a turn makes a difference with the rod bearing's height. With that realization, it seems the only way one can make them all consistent is to make sure the direction of the platenuts is the same. How is this achieved you ask? Simple. Hold the platenuts in one hand and the rod bearing in the other with the bearing JUST inserted at the beginning of the screw. Now, turn the bearing in the reverse direction (loosen) until you hear or feel a 'click'. That is where the two starting threads meet or join to thread the two together. Now, make a mark on one end of the platenut and do the same with the rest and put the mark at the same location on all. Make sure to hold the rod bearing the same way with each one, this puts the start of the thread in the same spot every time. Mark the bearing if you need to as well to remember it's position in your hand. Once done, rivet all the platenuts in place with the marks going all the same direction. Now all the rod bearings will be consistent in height and not half a turn off from one another. I didn't do this on the elevators or rudder but plan to on the wings.

So, I set off drilling. I quickly discovered the J-B Weld is good for a great many things, but not as a hole filler to be re-drilled in steel. The bit was actually wandering over to the old hole as the J-B Weld is not as strong as steel. It's epoxy after all. Okay, now I'm extremely frustrated as this emp kit should have been done hours ago. No pictures for this little process. 

I cleaned up the holes by ScotchBrighting them, removing the powder coat around the holes, filing the remainder of the J-B Weld from the inside of the holes and clearing a little powder coat from the ends of the horns to ready them for welding (you need a ground point with the steel). I took my elevators to a local welder to see if they would be able to do them. He said to bring them by Wednesday as he was short-staffed. So, I'm waiting until then to take them.

Hole Cleaned Up & Ready to for a Fill Weld

Another note here: Although I did some welding in my youth in a shop class, I don't possess the skills necessary nor do I have the equipment to try this myself. I've read that TIG welding is better than MIG welding in that TIG has less spatter or spray and it is a cooler weld which is less likely to harden the steel horn which would be more difficult to drill later if it were hardened too much. I'll report the outcome a little later.

Day Total: .6 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 150.8 hrs

Saturday, August 31, 2013
Today, while waiting to take my elevators to be repaired by a professional welder, I decided to do a little work on the fiberglass elevator and rudder tips. Basically, I was just fitting them by marking the excess that needed to be trimmed around the counterbalance weights. So, I inserted them into their places and made marks right a the edge of the CB weight and made notches in both the elevator tips. I did the same for the rudder top tip. I also trimmed the excess of length (depth in this case) of the glass to make it fit into the space provided which will sit at or just above the inside rib line. I still need to trim the elevator tips for depth as well as the HS tips and the rudder bottom cap.

Elevator Tip in Place After Notching

Tip with Notch Cut Out for Clarity

That's it for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 1.2 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 152.0 hrs

Trim Tab Complete!

Okay, okay. I may have been a little harsh in my previous post regarding builders being overly picky and meticulous when it comes to the trim tab. I know that I'd like the perfect plane, in every aspect. Those little blemishes that occur along the way are what make our planes ours and very unique to us. I had much more difficulty with my trim tab than I'd expected. I think the issue is that the directions could be written a bit better with regular updates. Maybe this isn't the most cost effective way to do things at Van's, but it would help builders who succeed us with less headache. For instance, particularly on the trim tab, noting what areas should be dimpled and countersink BEFORE even bending the trim tab would be MOST beneficial and save on some time and aggravation. I know it would have for me. Ask me how I know this. Maybe I should start reading the sections entirely before embarking on a part. At times this isn't feasible, such as when you read before you build, sometimes it doesn't make sense as you're reading.

Masking for Priming Before Riveting Horns

Notice Anything? Yep, I Forgot to DIMPLE!
This Also Shows Rivet Sizes for Different Holes

Previously, I deburred, dimpled, countersunk and primed all the trim tab parts. I started with clecoing the trim tab back together. The directions tell you this then to rivet the bottom of the skin to the bottom of the flange and the trim tab horns. Well, you can't entirely cleco the trim tab and accomplish this. I needed to leave the upper skin unfastened to get either a squeezer or a bucking bar in the space. I riveted the horns and flange all in place and only had to rework 3 rivets.

I don't think I followed the directions in the right order but I basically got the hinge positioned in the previous steps, drilled and clecoed to the trim tab. Next, I positioned the trim tab on the elevator and marked the hinge position on the elevator laterally, figuring about 1/8" between the bent tabs areas. Next, I removed the forward part of the hinge and clamped it in place on the elevator. I started drilling on the outboard hole, then cleco, then drill every other hole, cleco then went back and finished drilling the rest of the holes. Next was marking the inboard skin edge on the hinge then trimming that area to match the skin when installed into position. I clecoed the forward part of the hinge back on the elevator and connected the trim tab with the hinge rod. Once this is in position, I used a small squeeze clamp to hold the trim tab in line with the elevator. This step is where alignment is needed to get the tab to follow the line of the trailing edge of the elevator and to tweak the tab to get it straight and follow the same line on the up and down axis. Per the directions, I clamped a piece of angel aluminum to the trailing edge of the elevator and aligned the tab to follow the same line and angle. Once it was straight, I put the clamp in position to hold it to the elevator then drilled the three #30 holes for the pull rivets on the bent tabs and put a couple clecos in. Next, I carefully removed the hinge rod and riveted the top of the tab with the hinge in place. After that, I put the pull rivets (CS4-4) into the bent tabs. Then I needed to figure where the rivets would go on the other end of the trim tab so as not to interfere with the rivets needed on the elevators bent tabs. I put the trim tab back on to mark where I would put those rivet so they were offset from each other.

Setting Position for Tweaking the Trim Tab

Marking Bent Tab Area for Pull Rivets

Next, I riveted the forward part of the hinge elevator and VIOLA! The trim tab is is done!!! Directions tell you that the pin/rod for the hinge is not long enough and that you'll get one that fits the way it should for bending and positioning in place to be wire tied to the elevator. That one will come with the fuselage kit. I need to make a punch list of things I need to go back an complete. Up to this point, there hasn't been much. Things like this hinge rod, torque sealing certain nuts and bolts as well as any other things that don't get checked off the direction list right away.

Trim Tab Complete, Except for the Hinge Rod

Another Shot of the Completed Trim Tab

I agree that the trim tab is very small, but a major pain in the @$$! It does take patience. If you're getting frustrated, STEP BACK, TAKE A BREATH! Just go slow. This thing doesn't and WON'T be done tomorrow, at least not at this stage. While riveting my hinge to the trim tab, I didn't have my squeeze set right and bent one of the hinge sleeves. That took 10 minutes or so to get worked out. But turned out fine. I put another marred spot in the skin while bucking one of the hard-to-get-to rivets. The bar was set funny inside and I didn't have the rivet gun on very well. Needless to say, the skin is quite ugly in that spot.

The Marred Area From the Bucking Bar

The Same Area, Different Angle. It Has A
Tin Can Effect if Pushed From Both Sides

If it turns out that I'm just not that happy with it, maybe I'll make another later. It's pretty straight and true. I saw another builder talk about the flange inside not being very well fabricated and it causing one side of the skin to bow when pulled into position. Mine is doing that as well. There's a bit of a bow on one side and pretty straight on the other. I'm going to leave it alone for now.

I semi-installed the trim tab motor to get a feel for how the push rod will be positioned when it's in it's final position. There will be some trimming needed for clearance where the rod exits the elevator skin. It shouldn't be a big issue, a little fine trimming, filing and cleaning. I'll probably work the fiberglass tips later with the other fiberglass. I want/need to take the fabrication course that the EAA offers (SportAir Workshops) before I venture into uncharted territory. I'm not sure if I'm going with the seamless look or screwing the tips on. The latter gives better accessibility for any fixes, changes or repairs. The seamless gives a nicer look as well as better waterproofing for the inside of the wings and empennage. I'm going to weigh the options and read what VAF members and other bloggers have done to see what the consensus is. Next will be rolling the leading edges of the left and right elevators. Fun stuff... NOT! Well, it kinda is. =8^P

That's all for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 5.9  HOBBS Meter - 141.8

Holding Position

Hi Gang! No, I didn't fall off the face of the earth. I'm still here. I haven't worked on the project in a couple weeks. Life kinda got in the way and I just got stalled a bit by focusing on a few other things. I thought I'd at least put a note here letting you know what's going on. My apologies.

I have the elevator almost complete. I still have 2 rivets needing to be set but needed to get some thin metal bar to act as a bucking bar. I don't have any setting tools to squeeze in the tight area so I'll be using a little bar in the 3/16"-1/4" range to fit into the flange area with a mushroom tip on it, just outside the flange. I'll have a pic of the technique later to better illustrate what I'm trying to describe here, for those of you that don't understand. I learned it in the EAA sheet metal course and I think it's a pretty popular method and works pretty well in a pinch.

I started getting the elevator trim tab ready to bend the smaller tabs into position. I started by putting it in the bending brake and as soon as I pushed down on the board, I realized a couple things! Always after the fact, of course. First, I failed to pull the blue vinyl, scuff, clean and prime the inside of the tab and. Secondly, I squeezed the tab skin WAY too much. Now I'm left with having to spread it open again so I can perform the aforementioned tasks. Additionally, I squeezed it too tight to allow for the end tabs to be bent into position. I slowly spread it a bit just with my hands and am seeing what appear to be signs of creasing, or double bending, points where the spreading stops very near the actual bend and takes on what appears to be a new point of bending. So, my idea was to get a few sizes of dowel and put them inside the bend area and push enough to spread that area open wider. I still have a little work to do on this little gem but it's coming along. I am basically tinkering with the project right now, 1, 2 or 5 minutes here and there. I need to get a few things out of the way and get my head back in the game.

My first biennial flight review (BFR) is due at the end of the month so I've been brushing up on the regs. I hope to accomplish that in the next weekend or two. I think I'm making things out to be worse than they are. I've only flown a whopping total of about 5 hours in the last year. Can you see my dilemma? Just a little worried and I want to do well. I'm sure it's no big deal, but if you think about it, it IS a BIG deal. Having, holding and keeping a private pilot license (PPL) is a huge priviledge. I want to be worthy of it's benefits.

That's all for now. Take Care and Thanks For Reading!

Elevator Almost There

Tonight saw the assembly of the left elevator. I started by putting some red RTV (in case I fly really close to the sun or an active volcano) into the space between the elevator stiffeners (4 of them) to help minimize cracking, according to other builders and supposedly Van's. Although, I've not seen the RTV in the stiffener area referenced in any of the Van's documentation. It can't hurt putting the RTV in, so I did. However, I forgot to put it in on the right side!! Maybe I haven't combed through all the material enough. The reference to the red RTV and the sun is that the red RTV is for applications in the 300° category. 

After the application of the RTV, I proceeded to install the elevator skeleton into the skin then cleco'd it into place. I then riveted about 98% of this section. I still have 2 trailing edge rivets to creatively buck. I took my dimpling bar and tapered the opposite end a couple weeks ago and used it to buck the same rivets on the right elevator. I'll do the same here on the left side. No pictures tonight as this is almost identical to the right elevator assembly. It was getting too late to pull out the rivet gun and buck them so I'll finish those next, followed by putting the E-606PP trim spar in place then riveting it.

Until then, Take Care and Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 2.3 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 130.3 hrs

Elevator on the Home Stretch!

I told you I'd let you know how the issue went with the CB skin to the right elevator skin and alignment issues with the sub-structure. I had previously riveted the 4 holes, 2 top and 2 bottom, which helps you avoid using pull rivets later. Afterward, I was seeing alignment issues with some of my holes when putting a few clecos in through the skin to the substructure. The simple solution is to put clecos in ALL holes, that way, they are all lined up. Then, pull one cleco at a time and shoot a rivet. As you go, you shouldn't have any alignment issues. Little by little, the clecos pull everything into place when you put them all in. You can't just muscle this AND drive rivets at the same time. You might have to work on wiggling a few rivets in here and there but they should go in pretty well. Using clecos every second or third hole sometimes just doesn't do the job. There ya go! Give it a try if you're struggling with alignment issues next time.

Sunday, September 16 - Today saw only a couple hours work on the right elevator. I clecoed the right skin onto the substructure then proceeded to rivet the assembly. While final attaching the CB weight, I realized I had forgotten to trim the weight per the plans. Well, once it's in place, you cannot remove the weight because of the countersinks and dimpling, which keep the weight in place and from moving. Though not an arduous task, it's just a pain in the butt to fabricate while in place. So, I marked the measurements on the weight and began cutting. Same thing here as when you drilled the holes for the weight, LUBE! I started with a hacksaw and just kept lubing the area and things went pretty well. My hacksaw couldn't exactly fit in the area against the CB skin as it was too wide. I got as close to the line as possible then put a lot of tape on the skin and pulled out the jig saw and finished as closely as possible. I then took a flat, metal file to clean up the flat areas then I took a rat-tail file to round the inside corner. I think that, for my goof, things turned out pretty well. After that, I secured the weight in place. I still need to get the nuts torqued and apply some torque seal on them.

CB Weight in Place and Trimmed

Day Total: 2.2 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 124.7 hrs

Sunday, September 23 - Today, I started on making a jig for bending the tabs on the left elevator. There are 2 tabs that require bending then riveting. They act like a rib at that point of the structure when finished. Right next to this area is where the trim tab will fit so you want to get the bending right the first time. You're to use the trailing edge of the elevator, where the trim tab attaches, as your line to mark the perpendicular location to mark the elevator tab bending points. I have heard of builders working on the trim tab first to get the hang of the bending process so if they screw it up, it's cheaper to purchase a new tab than a new elevator skin, and all subsequent parts as you've already riveted everything together. Then, you'd have practice building two before moving to the elevator tabs.

I decided to approach this head on and follow the plans. I have confidence in my creativity and mechanical skills to follow the directions and do a reasonably decent job with the construction. First, I put the trim spar in place to determine the height of the widest area of the tab distance then measured the narrowest, tapered end to get the angle. Then I got a piece of MDF and cut the angle. The remaining piece of the cut I trimmed so I'd be able to clamp it to the bench. You should use a double-sided tape on all of the wood surfaces to keep them from sliding while bending the tabs. I went with a thin, foam tape with a high adhesion factor to make sure things wouldn't slip. This turned out not to be the best idea as the tape kind of "spreads" because of the thickness of the foam itself. If I were to do this again, I'd get a solid tape, not a foam tape to prevent this. I still need to work on the trim tab so I'll get a different tape for that bend.

I got the foam tape in place and clamped to the bench then proceeded to use a small block of wood to bend the lower tab first. You're supposed to bend the upper tab down over the lower to minimize the possibility of water entering the area. I took my rivet gun and started using it against the block against the tab, slowly bending it down (down because you're working on the elevator with the bottom side up first). Then I ran the gun against the tab, back and forth, making sure it was nice and flat and straight. I was satisfied with that so I removed the outer block, put new tape on it, flipped the elevator over so it was right-side-up. I put the block on the other side and proceeded to bend the top tab down over the bottom tab with the same process as the bottom. I'm not too worried here with imperfections on the face of the tabs as it will all be painted later and cleaned up pretty well. Now I just need to see how well I hit the bend lines when I put the trim tab in place. Crossing my fingers.

Jig Pieces Cut For Bending Elevator Trim Tabs

The Wedge Piece Without Tape. The Bottom
Edge Lines Up With the Marked Line

Test Fit of The Wedge in Place (No Tape Yet)

The Clamping Piece Before Tape & Trimming

After the tabs were bent, I proceeded to cleco and rivet the elevator sub-structure together. I first started with assembling the E-703 end rib and E-704 counterbalance rib. Then I assembled the E-610PP and E-611PP spar reinforcement plates with their respective platenuts. After that came the E-705 left root rib to the E-702 spar assembly, making sure the flush-head rivets were facing forward. This allows the elevator horn to sit flush over the assembly and not hitting any rivets. Next came the riveting of the E-703/704 assembly to the spar. After that I riveted the WD-605-1-L elevator horn to the E-702/705 assembly. Then, I cleco'd the CB skin to the elevator skin with the 2 rivets top and bottom. After the skins were connected, I put the CB weight in place to put the bolts in to hold it in place loosely. STOP!! I just realized at this point that when I drilled the weights previously, I had this weight inserted into its location incorrectly. UGH! Okay, I just re-drilled the holes in the correct location. Now, what to do with the other 2 holes. Simple! I took two flat head wood screws the same diameter of the holes, I ground the heads flat on the left and right sides so they wouldn't interfere with the countersinks of the adjacent holes (they're pretty close together). I cut the screws to length so they wouldn't extend past the thickness of the weight. I whipped up a little batch of JB Weld and smeared the screw shanks with it then inserted them and made sure they were seated well. They're lighter than the lead they're inserted into but it's better than leaving the holes empty or inserting a wood dowel or something. I think the difference in weight will be negligible. I stopped here to let the epoxy harden. Plus, it's been consistently in the 90s here all week, making work in the ACME garage uncomfortable. 

E-611PP Reinforcement Plate with Platenut

Manufactured Side of Rivet Assembly of E-611PP

My Correction of Mis-Drilled CB Weight Holes

CB Weight in Place After Correction

Inside of CB Weight with Screw "Plugs"

I've been trying to get to a local EAA chapter (Chapter 49, Lancaster, CA) meeting and, for the past several months, kept missing it, for one reason or another. I've been trying to attend to meet and get to know tech counselors so I can find out how my work is measuring up. I found that a co-worker, in his younger days, was an A&P and I mentioned to him my project. I encouraged me to bring in a couple parts and that he'd be thrilled to take a look. SO, I took my VS and rudder in and had him give them the once, twice and thrice look-over! He said my work looked really clean and pretty good. The only suggestion he had for me was to squeeze my #40 rivets a little more. I checked the gauge I've been using and I think it's a little undersized for what it should be measuring. It's right at about 9/64ths and it should be between that and 5/32nds. You know, 1.5 times the width of the diameter of the shank (for a #3 rivet in this case). So, I measured everything and I'm now starting to use my calipers to double-check my work. I'd like to extend a BIG thanks to Bruce for his assistance, encouragement and support!!! I feel much better about my work now and know what to pay closer attention to. He even encouraged me to call him up when help is needed for bucking. I'll be taking you up on that soon Bruce!

Hey all, as always, Take Care and Thanks for Reading!

Day Total: 3.3 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 128.0 hrs

Elevator, Going Up or Down?

Another busy day in Aircraft Construction & Manufacturing Enterprise (ACME) garage! I always wanted to use that acronym for my build.

Today, I started by dimpling all the left elevator parts. I had forgotten this step earlier, but no worries, the primer I'm using, SEM self-etching primer, works well when dimpling after having primed then letting it dry. It doesn't chip, break or damage in any way, which I really like. So, after dimpling all the stiffeners, skin and E-615 reinforcement plate, I moved on to dimpling the #6 screw holes in the reinforcement plate.

#6 Dimples Added for Platenuts
& Standard Rivet Dimples

These dimples sit in the platenuts and receive the cover plate, which will be dimpled as well. I've seen some builders machine countersink the rivet holes for the platenuts but you have to be EXACT on them or you risk countersinking too deeply, expanding the size of the hole itself. I tried to do this on one and was very uncomfortable with the result. This is not a structural rivet and only for the platenuts which will hold the access cover plate. The machine countersink holes, if done right and done well, leave a very nice, very flush rivet when completed. Yeah, like I said, this is only for a cover plate and they'll be covered up anyway and you won't see them when the plane is sitting on a ramp. Additionally, this will not be a show plane. This plane will be for recreation and FUN! So, I went back to dimpling these holes. The reason I believe some people don't like this is that if you dimple those holes, you also need to dimple the platenuts as well. I agree that dimpling platenuts isn't the best idea, but again, it's just for holding an access plate. You have to take your female dimple die and shave an angle on it so it will fit in the corner of the platenut in order for you to dimple it. So, this is the way I went. The flush rivets don't look bad.

Next I riveted the E-615PP access reinforcement plate to the skin, then backriveted the stiffeners. After that, bending. I brought out the bending brake and took care of the business of bending the right elevator. The bend went very smoothly and looks very good. I think I'm liking the additional 1/8" space that I added to the brake.

E-615PP Riveted in Place With Its Platenuts

The Skin View of all Set Rivets. Looks Good!

Right Elevator After the Bending Process

I clecoed the E-610PP and E-611PP reinforcement plates to the E-702 spar and match-drilled them. After that, I fluted the E-703 end ribs and E-704 counterbalance ribs. Once they were fluted, they were clecoed to the spar and match-drilled. This completed, they were removed from the spar. Next up, working with the counterbalance. At this point, I'm working the two elevators together where I can to expedite some of the building.

Basically, you cleco the E-714 CB skin to the E-703 and E-704 ribs then slide the weight into position. Make sure you remove the vinyl first to make this easier.

Clecoing the CB Skin to Ribs

This is Where the Weight Goes 

The Weight Being Slid Into Its Position

The Weight Fully in Position 

Once the weight is in place, make sure the ridge on the weight is seated firmly against the skin. In other words, slide the weight into place as far as it will go.

This is the Weight in as Far as it Will Go

After that, in an upright position, I clamped the exposed weight to the workbench. This made the holes for the screws point to the ceiling. Now it's time to drill the #12 holes for the screws.

CB Assembly in Position for Drilling.
Use Lube! I Can't Stress This Enough.

MAKE SURE YOU USE LUBE WHEN DRILLING! If you are using a new drill bit, which, at this stage of the build, you probably are, this bit will want to chew its way through very quickly. Without lube, it will be very difficult as the lead is very dense and the bit will bind quickly. The lube helps the cut lead slide up the drill bit and out making things go much more quickly, smoothly and easily. Now, When drilling, go S-L-O-W. Don't force the drill. Let the drill do the cutting by itself. You'll actually need to keep the drill from going to quickly as it will still have a tendency to bind up if you let it. I had to hold the drill back and not let it rip into the lead too quickly. As it was, it still wanted to bind a bit, even with the lube. Stop and with your hand, reverse the chuck, unless you have a reversible drill, and pull it out. Add a little more lube then go back at it. you should be able to drill all 4 holes in about five minutes or so. I used Boelube for this process. It works very well and is excellent for other lube situations as well.

Boelube to Start the Drilling

Continue Adding Lube as You Drill

Viola! Nice Clean #12 Holes

Once I was done with drilling, I unclecoed the E-713 CB skin, releasing the counterweight. I made sure to mark the weights, right and left, then set them aside. I re-clecoed the CB skin back on then clecoed this final assembly onto the E-702 spar. After that was done, I clecoed the E-709 root rib to the spar and final drilled it to #40. Next, I clecoed the skin onto the understructure. Like the rudder, the main skin lays on top of the CB skin. I beveled the CB skin with the ScotchBrite wheel at the 2 locations on either side of the elevator where the skins overlap on top of the spar. Again, this is to minimize the bulge created by the CB skin pushing up on the elevator skin. This will make a cleaner appearance. Next, I removed the clecos holding the E-709 root rib from the spar and clecoed the WD-605-1R elevator horn in place and match-drilled it to the spar and root rib with a #30. The holes don't line up exactly and you have to fuss with it a bit, which I did and was eventually successful. After that, I match-drilled all the holes in the skin to the structure. Once that was completed, I disassembled the entire elevator.

Right Elevator, Drilled, Ready for Dis-Assembly

One last thing, after I disassembled the elevator, I took care of dimpling the E-713 CB skin for the screws that will hold the CB weight in place. In addition, I machine countersunk the weight itself to accept the skins dimpling.

The Weight Machine Countersunk & the
CB Skin Dimpled for the #12 Screws

Awe, It Fell Apart. Time for Deburr, Etc.

Now, Rinse, Later, Repeat! Yep, you got it, edge clean, deburr, deburr, deburr, clean and prime. I'm about half way with the deburring. I'll complete that then on to cleaning, priming and assembling. Take Care and Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 6.1 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 110.3 hrs