Elevator on the Home Stretch!

I told you I'd let you know how the issue went with the CB skin to the right elevator skin and alignment issues with the sub-structure. I had previously riveted the 4 holes, 2 top and 2 bottom, which helps you avoid using pull rivets later. Afterward, I was seeing alignment issues with some of my holes when putting a few clecos in through the skin to the substructure. The simple solution is to put clecos in ALL holes, that way, they are all lined up. Then, pull one cleco at a time and shoot a rivet. As you go, you shouldn't have any alignment issues. Little by little, the clecos pull everything into place when you put them all in. You can't just muscle this AND drive rivets at the same time. You might have to work on wiggling a few rivets in here and there but they should go in pretty well. Using clecos every second or third hole sometimes just doesn't do the job. There ya go! Give it a try if you're struggling with alignment issues next time.

Sunday, September 16 - Today saw only a couple hours work on the right elevator. I clecoed the right skin onto the substructure then proceeded to rivet the assembly. While final attaching the CB weight, I realized I had forgotten to trim the weight per the plans. Well, once it's in place, you cannot remove the weight because of the countersinks and dimpling, which keep the weight in place and from moving. Though not an arduous task, it's just a pain in the butt to fabricate while in place. So, I marked the measurements on the weight and began cutting. Same thing here as when you drilled the holes for the weight, LUBE! I started with a hacksaw and just kept lubing the area and things went pretty well. My hacksaw couldn't exactly fit in the area against the CB skin as it was too wide. I got as close to the line as possible then put a lot of tape on the skin and pulled out the jig saw and finished as closely as possible. I then took a flat, metal file to clean up the flat areas then I took a rat-tail file to round the inside corner. I think that, for my goof, things turned out pretty well. After that, I secured the weight in place. I still need to get the nuts torqued and apply some torque seal on them.

CB Weight in Place and Trimmed

Day Total: 2.2 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 124.7 hrs

Sunday, September 23 - Today, I started on making a jig for bending the tabs on the left elevator. There are 2 tabs that require bending then riveting. They act like a rib at that point of the structure when finished. Right next to this area is where the trim tab will fit so you want to get the bending right the first time. You're to use the trailing edge of the elevator, where the trim tab attaches, as your line to mark the perpendicular location to mark the elevator tab bending points. I have heard of builders working on the trim tab first to get the hang of the bending process so if they screw it up, it's cheaper to purchase a new tab than a new elevator skin, and all subsequent parts as you've already riveted everything together. Then, you'd have practice building two before moving to the elevator tabs.

I decided to approach this head on and follow the plans. I have confidence in my creativity and mechanical skills to follow the directions and do a reasonably decent job with the construction. First, I put the trim spar in place to determine the height of the widest area of the tab distance then measured the narrowest, tapered end to get the angle. Then I got a piece of MDF and cut the angle. The remaining piece of the cut I trimmed so I'd be able to clamp it to the bench. You should use a double-sided tape on all of the wood surfaces to keep them from sliding while bending the tabs. I went with a thin, foam tape with a high adhesion factor to make sure things wouldn't slip. This turned out not to be the best idea as the tape kind of "spreads" because of the thickness of the foam itself. If I were to do this again, I'd get a solid tape, not a foam tape to prevent this. I still need to work on the trim tab so I'll get a different tape for that bend.

I got the foam tape in place and clamped to the bench then proceeded to use a small block of wood to bend the lower tab first. You're supposed to bend the upper tab down over the lower to minimize the possibility of water entering the area. I took my rivet gun and started using it against the block against the tab, slowly bending it down (down because you're working on the elevator with the bottom side up first). Then I ran the gun against the tab, back and forth, making sure it was nice and flat and straight. I was satisfied with that so I removed the outer block, put new tape on it, flipped the elevator over so it was right-side-up. I put the block on the other side and proceeded to bend the top tab down over the bottom tab with the same process as the bottom. I'm not too worried here with imperfections on the face of the tabs as it will all be painted later and cleaned up pretty well. Now I just need to see how well I hit the bend lines when I put the trim tab in place. Crossing my fingers.

Jig Pieces Cut For Bending Elevator Trim Tabs

The Wedge Piece Without Tape. The Bottom
Edge Lines Up With the Marked Line

Test Fit of The Wedge in Place (No Tape Yet)

The Clamping Piece Before Tape & Trimming

After the tabs were bent, I proceeded to cleco and rivet the elevator sub-structure together. I first started with assembling the E-703 end rib and E-704 counterbalance rib. Then I assembled the E-610PP and E-611PP spar reinforcement plates with their respective platenuts. After that came the E-705 left root rib to the E-702 spar assembly, making sure the flush-head rivets were facing forward. This allows the elevator horn to sit flush over the assembly and not hitting any rivets. Next came the riveting of the E-703/704 assembly to the spar. After that I riveted the WD-605-1-L elevator horn to the E-702/705 assembly. Then, I cleco'd the CB skin to the elevator skin with the 2 rivets top and bottom. After the skins were connected, I put the CB weight in place to put the bolts in to hold it in place loosely. STOP!! I just realized at this point that when I drilled the weights previously, I had this weight inserted into its location incorrectly. UGH! Okay, I just re-drilled the holes in the correct location. Now, what to do with the other 2 holes. Simple! I took two flat head wood screws the same diameter of the holes, I ground the heads flat on the left and right sides so they wouldn't interfere with the countersinks of the adjacent holes (they're pretty close together). I cut the screws to length so they wouldn't extend past the thickness of the weight. I whipped up a little batch of JB Weld and smeared the screw shanks with it then inserted them and made sure they were seated well. They're lighter than the lead they're inserted into but it's better than leaving the holes empty or inserting a wood dowel or something. I think the difference in weight will be negligible. I stopped here to let the epoxy harden. Plus, it's been consistently in the 90s here all week, making work in the ACME garage uncomfortable. 

E-611PP Reinforcement Plate with Platenut

Manufactured Side of Rivet Assembly of E-611PP

My Correction of Mis-Drilled CB Weight Holes

CB Weight in Place After Correction

Inside of CB Weight with Screw "Plugs"

I've been trying to get to a local EAA chapter (Chapter 49, Lancaster, CA) meeting and, for the past several months, kept missing it, for one reason or another. I've been trying to attend to meet and get to know tech counselors so I can find out how my work is measuring up. I found that a co-worker, in his younger days, was an A&P and I mentioned to him my project. I encouraged me to bring in a couple parts and that he'd be thrilled to take a look. SO, I took my VS and rudder in and had him give them the once, twice and thrice look-over! He said my work looked really clean and pretty good. The only suggestion he had for me was to squeeze my #40 rivets a little more. I checked the gauge I've been using and I think it's a little undersized for what it should be measuring. It's right at about 9/64ths and it should be between that and 5/32nds. You know, 1.5 times the width of the diameter of the shank (for a #3 rivet in this case). So, I measured everything and I'm now starting to use my calipers to double-check my work. I'd like to extend a BIG thanks to Bruce for his assistance, encouragement and support!!! I feel much better about my work now and know what to pay closer attention to. He even encouraged me to call him up when help is needed for bucking. I'll be taking you up on that soon Bruce!

Hey all, as always, Take Care and Thanks for Reading!

Day Total: 3.3 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 128.0 hrs