Trim Tab Complete!

Okay, okay. I may have been a little harsh in my previous post regarding builders being overly picky and meticulous when it comes to the trim tab. I know that I'd like the perfect plane, in every aspect. Those little blemishes that occur along the way are what make our planes ours and very unique to us. I had much more difficulty with my trim tab than I'd expected. I think the issue is that the directions could be written a bit better with regular updates. Maybe this isn't the most cost effective way to do things at Van's, but it would help builders who succeed us with less headache. For instance, particularly on the trim tab, noting what areas should be dimpled and countersink BEFORE even bending the trim tab would be MOST beneficial and save on some time and aggravation. I know it would have for me. Ask me how I know this. Maybe I should start reading the sections entirely before embarking on a part. At times this isn't feasible, such as when you read before you build, sometimes it doesn't make sense as you're reading.

Masking for Priming Before Riveting Horns

Notice Anything? Yep, I Forgot to DIMPLE!
This Also Shows Rivet Sizes for Different Holes

Previously, I deburred, dimpled, countersunk and primed all the trim tab parts. I started with clecoing the trim tab back together. The directions tell you this then to rivet the bottom of the skin to the bottom of the flange and the trim tab horns. Well, you can't entirely cleco the trim tab and accomplish this. I needed to leave the upper skin unfastened to get either a squeezer or a bucking bar in the space. I riveted the horns and flange all in place and only had to rework 3 rivets.

I don't think I followed the directions in the right order but I basically got the hinge positioned in the previous steps, drilled and clecoed to the trim tab. Next, I positioned the trim tab on the elevator and marked the hinge position on the elevator laterally, figuring about 1/8" between the bent tabs areas. Next, I removed the forward part of the hinge and clamped it in place on the elevator. I started drilling on the outboard hole, then cleco, then drill every other hole, cleco then went back and finished drilling the rest of the holes. Next was marking the inboard skin edge on the hinge then trimming that area to match the skin when installed into position. I clecoed the forward part of the hinge back on the elevator and connected the trim tab with the hinge rod. Once this is in position, I used a small squeeze clamp to hold the trim tab in line with the elevator. This step is where alignment is needed to get the tab to follow the line of the trailing edge of the elevator and to tweak the tab to get it straight and follow the same line on the up and down axis. Per the directions, I clamped a piece of angel aluminum to the trailing edge of the elevator and aligned the tab to follow the same line and angle. Once it was straight, I put the clamp in position to hold it to the elevator then drilled the three #30 holes for the pull rivets on the bent tabs and put a couple clecos in. Next, I carefully removed the hinge rod and riveted the top of the tab with the hinge in place. After that, I put the pull rivets (CS4-4) into the bent tabs. Then I needed to figure where the rivets would go on the other end of the trim tab so as not to interfere with the rivets needed on the elevators bent tabs. I put the trim tab back on to mark where I would put those rivet so they were offset from each other.

Setting Position for Tweaking the Trim Tab

Marking Bent Tab Area for Pull Rivets

Next, I riveted the forward part of the hinge elevator and VIOLA! The trim tab is is done!!! Directions tell you that the pin/rod for the hinge is not long enough and that you'll get one that fits the way it should for bending and positioning in place to be wire tied to the elevator. That one will come with the fuselage kit. I need to make a punch list of things I need to go back an complete. Up to this point, there hasn't been much. Things like this hinge rod, torque sealing certain nuts and bolts as well as any other things that don't get checked off the direction list right away.

Trim Tab Complete, Except for the Hinge Rod

Another Shot of the Completed Trim Tab

I agree that the trim tab is very small, but a major pain in the @$$! It does take patience. If you're getting frustrated, STEP BACK, TAKE A BREATH! Just go slow. This thing doesn't and WON'T be done tomorrow, at least not at this stage. While riveting my hinge to the trim tab, I didn't have my squeeze set right and bent one of the hinge sleeves. That took 10 minutes or so to get worked out. But turned out fine. I put another marred spot in the skin while bucking one of the hard-to-get-to rivets. The bar was set funny inside and I didn't have the rivet gun on very well. Needless to say, the skin is quite ugly in that spot.

The Marred Area From the Bucking Bar

The Same Area, Different Angle. It Has A
Tin Can Effect if Pushed From Both Sides

If it turns out that I'm just not that happy with it, maybe I'll make another later. It's pretty straight and true. I saw another builder talk about the flange inside not being very well fabricated and it causing one side of the skin to bow when pulled into position. Mine is doing that as well. There's a bit of a bow on one side and pretty straight on the other. I'm going to leave it alone for now.

I semi-installed the trim tab motor to get a feel for how the push rod will be positioned when it's in it's final position. There will be some trimming needed for clearance where the rod exits the elevator skin. It shouldn't be a big issue, a little fine trimming, filing and cleaning. I'll probably work the fiberglass tips later with the other fiberglass. I want/need to take the fabrication course that the EAA offers (SportAir Workshops) before I venture into uncharted territory. I'm not sure if I'm going with the seamless look or screwing the tips on. The latter gives better accessibility for any fixes, changes or repairs. The seamless gives a nicer look as well as better waterproofing for the inside of the wings and empennage. I'm going to weigh the options and read what VAF members and other bloggers have done to see what the consensus is. Next will be rolling the leading edges of the left and right elevators. Fun stuff... NOT! Well, it kinda is. =8^P

That's all for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 5.9  HOBBS Meter - 141.8

Elevators - Figure-8s & Being Creative

Monday, September 3 - Today was a simple day of deburring, dimpling and cleaning the right elevator parts and preparing them for priming. Ordinarily, this simple little process can be a mind-numbing one. However, this is such a small number of parts and it doesn't really take that long. That said, I tend to get a little impatient at times and rush some things. A perfect example would be instead of switching tools when dimpling gets into tight areas, I tried to keep going with the pneumatic squeezer and I created a figure-8. For those of you unfamiliar with what that is, it's where you are supposed to put the pin (male die) of your dimple set into the flat hole then squeeze the trigger of your pneumatic squeezer and you then have a dimpled hole. Well, a figure-8 is where you basically rush the process and miss that hole and punch a new hole right next to the one you were supposed to dimple in the first place, making the hole look like a figure-8. This is ONE of the MOST irritating, annoying, aggravating (you pick an adjective) thing to do. This happened  in the rib flange of the left elevator tip rib.

Figure-8 That is in the Process of Being Cleaned Up

The picture above shows my mistake in the process of being cleaned up. Here, I have already flattened the offending hole, which you see as what appears to be a blemish. The nice, round hole is where the dimple die was supposed to go and as you can see, I missed it by 1/8 of an inch. The space was a little too tight for my pneumatic squeezer but I felt I could get it done. Well, apparently not! I should have put it on the "hammer dimple" jig. That is a jig that has a countersunk hole in it. You put the hole to be dimpled over the hole on the bar, insert the male die and WHACK IT with a hammer a couple blows and it creates the dimple. The bar that's used is about 1/4" thick, which will usually fit in the area that needs dimpling. So, at that point I said I'd fix it later and move on. I pressed on and wanted to finish all the prepping for the right elevator. As I moved on, I approached the elevator skin an started dimpling it. Everything was going well, then BAM! I did it again !! I've been so very careful as to NOT do this during the entire project. I said it would not happen to me. Well, I did it twice within 1/2 hour. I had no clue as to how I was going to repair these. I went ahead and finished, slowly!

UGH! These Are UGLY, & Very Painful to See!

Flattening the Offending Hole with the Squeezer

Flattened & Ready For Repair

I stopped here for the evening so I could decompress and think about and research the best way to repair these 2 figure-8s.

Day Total 2.4 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 112.7 hrs

Wednesday, September 5 - Okay, I figured out what to do about my inadvertent mishaps. First, I flattened them out, as seen in the previous post by using a pneumatic squeezer and 2 flat dies. If you happen to do this, another option is using your rivet gun with a mushroom set on your rivet back plate. If you're unable to reach the hole with a rivet gun, you can use a flat piece of steel bar and slip it in and put it on the hole and use the rivet gun as close to the hole as possible, on the bar, flattening the spot out. Be creative.

Next was to re-dimple the holes, properly. After I accomplished that, the right way, I was still left with how to fill those holes. I've read where, depending on the hole and where it is, sometimes you can get by with leaving it alone. If it's a structural hole, that would concern me. You might end up with having to get a new part to replace it and do it again, WITHOUT the figure-8, of course! A little research lead me to JB Weld! You can get this stuff at most any home improvement store. I happened to purchase mine at Lowes. So, I mixed up a little batch and filled the holes using vinyl gloves and was very careful not to let it interfere with how a rivet will sit in the hole when finished. Everything turned out well and all looks good. I trust it will hold.

This is the Tip Rib Flange, Fixed & Filled.

This is the Right Elevator Skin, Fixed & Filled

I also finished the priming of all the parts for the right elevator tonight.

Day Total: 0.7 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 113.4 hrs

Friday, September 7 - Tonight I cleco'd all the parts for the left elevator and match-drilled all the holes, then dimpled and countersunk the screw holes in the CB skin and the CB weight.

This is the Right Elevator Parts But the Process
is the Same for the Left Side

Day Total: 2.7 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 116.1 hrs

Sunday, September 9 - Tonight, I primed all the parts for the left elevator.

Left Elevator Parts, Primed & Drying

Day Total: 1.0   HOBBS Meter - 117.1 hrs

Monday, September 10 - Tonight I did some touch-up priming and a little more dimpling. No pictures though. You've seen that stuff before and it can be boring.

Day Total: 0.7 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 117.8 hrs

Tuesday, September 11 - Two major things are recognized today. First, Happy Birthday Dad! Yes, it's his 73rd birthday today and he doesn't look a day over 71! Haha, just kidding Dad! Seriously, this guy is kicking strong and enjoys all kinds of activities. He got to visit me a few weeks ago and though we didn't work on the project, we will have a chance soon, I'm sure. He loves to work around the house and play Mr. Fixit, as well as fishing and kayaking. Have fun today Dad!

The other major event to day is to Never Forget 9/11! Today is the 11th anniversary of the 9/11 terrorist attacks on our nation. 

Never Forget!

Today, the task was dimpling the E-606PP trim spar on the top and bottom to accept the dimples for the E-701 elevator skin. After that, I dimpled the aft side of the face of the trim spar (you can do either side here per the plans) for flush rivets. I chose the aft side as it looked like it would be easier with the tools to set the rivets. Next, dimpling was done on the E-705 left elevator root rib to the E-702 left elevator spar.

I also worked on the the electric elevator trim mechanism assembly. The kit comes standard with a manual elevator trim but I chose the option of an electric elevator trim. This makes things much easier and according to Van's, no weight is added by using this option, compared to the manual trim. First, I marked the location on the E-616PP trim cover plate for the EET-602-B left and right z channel servo support brackets.

Bracket Locations Marked for the Trim Servo

Then I drilled/match-drilled for the #40 holes for riveting the brackets to the cover plate and followed that up with dimpling the parts. Next is to clean, scuff and clean again, then prime those parts.

Drilling for the Z Brackets

Brackets Drilled & Ready for Prep, Prime & Rivets

Elevator Trim Servo as it will Look in Place

Day Total: 1.5 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 119.3 hrs

Wednesday, September 12 - Tonight I worked to assemble the right elevator. First though, I cleaned, scuffed, then cleaned again then primed the E-616PP trim cover plate and the two z channel servo support brackets. Next, I riveted the two z brackets to the cover plate then loosely put the servo in place with it's screws. I set the cover plate with the servo aside for later.

Next I riveted the E-703 end rib to the E-704 CB rib. After that was riveting the E-610PP and E-611PP spar reinforcement plates to the E-702 spar along with the associated platenuts. These are for the rod end bearings which is how the elevators attach to the horizontal stabilizer.  Next was riveting the E-703/704 parts to the E-702 spar. After that, I riveted the WD-605-1-L elevator horn in place to the spar and E-705 root rib. Take your time with these elevator hors as the horn is a very tight fit to the spar and root rib. Make sure they line up well before drilling and riveting.

E-611PP Reinforcement Plate with Platenut,
Shop Head Side

Elevator Horn Riveted in Place

I stopped here as I need to dimple the skin in a few places to match the CB skin. I missed a couple previously. I'll have to rivet the skins together in a couple places before putting the skeleton in place. This eliminates the need for using blind rivets.

Day Total: 2.0 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 121.3 hrs

Friday, September 14 - Tonight I worked on the right elevator. I was working to prepare all the parts for both right and left elevators so assembly could be done simultaneously but that is nearly impossible. The only thing that is advantageous is priming all the parts at the same time. If you're using a 2-part epoxy primer, I can see the advantage of prep and cleanup. However, I am using a self-etching, rattle-can primer so it doesn't really matter to try and batch parts together. Sometimes it works, but not often.

Tonight I riveted the E-713 CB skin to the E-701 right elevator skin with 2 rivets on each side per the plans. As mentioned before, by doing this now, I'll eliminate the need for doing these later using blind rivets, keeping a nice, clean profile. Next I put the CB weight in place and inserting the screws (loosely, no nuts right now). This just holds it in place. Then I put the skeleton in place and cleco'd it. I'm ready to rivet but I stopped here as I have some hole alignment issues. I want to think about this a little bit and maybe play with the parts later to see if they just need some wiggling or, and I really hope this isn't the case, if maybe I mixed up the 2 CB skins and I have the wrong one in place. It wouldn't be a huge issue as mush as it would be a pain in the butt. I'd only have to drill out 4 rivets. I'll let you know how this went later.

Look Closely & You'll See the Rib Hole
Out of Alignment

Another Shot of the Alignment Issues
on the CB Skin to Rib

That's all for now and I apologize for getting so behind again. I don't know how some of these guys do it, keeping up with their posts and blogs more regularly than I'm able to. I must have WAY too many things to do to keep up. Yeah, that MUST be it! Hey, Take Care and Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 1.2 hrs   HOBBS Meter - 122.5 hrs