Back On Track - Mostly

I left off with the comment that I was going to build the Van's Tool Box project to get back up to speed with riveting. I completed that project and I'm glad I did as I was pretty rusty with my riveting skills. I needed to get the hang of it and get the setting right with the rivet gun. I worked with several riveting techniques including using the pneumatic rivet squeezer (I love this one), bucking by using and getting familiar with all the bars in the tool kit including a tungsten bar, and rivet sets, one being the tight fit (spring loaded) rivet set. I had to send this little gem back because the mechanism was sticking. I'm still waiting for that to come back from Isham, along with my inch-pound torque wrench. The little ball bearing that holds a socket on popped out along with the little, teeny weeny spring. I couldn't get it to stay back in so I sent that back as well.

The Van's Took Box Project - Parts All Layed Out

Tool Box Project - Bottom Riveted and Top Cleco'd

All Complete! Read Directions Very Carefully,
Meaning Read Ahead Sometimes.
It'll Save Some Headache Later.

Sending the Torque Wrench & Tight Fit Rivet Set
Back for Repair or Replacement.

Thurs, May 31 - So, after the tool box was finished, I resumed the HS construction by attaching HS-708 to the rear spar assembly. I Cleco'd the HS-412PP and HS-413PP elevator hinge brackets to the rear spar assembly and match drilled them per the plans. I assembled the elevator hing assembly bracket together and match drilled it as well. I stopped her for the night.

Token Builder Picture
Working the HS Rear Spar Assembly

The VA-146 Hinge Bearing Being Primed

Ok, speaking of priming, I'll give a little dissertation on priming. This is what I researched, discovered and went with. I did a lot of research, what's best, rattle can or 2-part epoxy. I looked at a lot of builder sites as well as EAA forums and VAF. Then I checked my notes and I remembered what Jack Dueck said during the EAA RV Builders Workshop. He's built and flys an RV-4. Here is Jack's take on corrosion protection. Here is a little Bio on Jack and his activities at AirVenture 2012. He's a BIG proponet of rattle-can primers, very easy, effective and no cleanup!

I live in the arid, Antelope Valley in the Mojave Desert of Southern California. It's pretty dry here. I could probably go the route of the GA manufacturers and not prime inside. However, I figure using a rattle-can, self-etching primer is still better than no coat at all and if, down the line, I decide to sell my baby, anybody intetested in having a plane with internal protection will still have that benefit. That said, I'm going with SEM Self-Etching primer. It's a bit costly at $18+ a can. But I understand that I'll be using approximatly a dozen cans for the project. I thought of getting more but the shelf life of the product is only a year so I'll get what I need when I need it. I tried the Rust-O-Leum brand and was disappointed with how it turned out after drying. It dries pretty quickly, is a little heavy when it goes on and a little rough after drying. I tried the SEM on a sample piece of aluminum and was really pleased with the fingernail scratch test. I'm sold. The picture above is of the Rust-O-Leum brand. You'll see pictures later of the SEM brand. I sent an e-mail to Jack confirming the preparation for a project for priming. I inquired about Alumiprep, et al, and Alodine and this is what Jack had to say: "Yes, alumniprep and alodine is overkill.  All you need to do is clean the part with acetone or mek and then spray it with the self etching primer.  Protect yourself during the cleaning process with latex or rubber gloves.  You'll have good results and good corrosion protection.". I understand that even with priming in this manner, you'd be adding between 5 and 10 pounds of weight over all. I can settle for that.

I finished with all the other little projects in the garage, installing the air compressor, air lines, air hose reel, and a little space rearrangement. I pulled the manufacturer drain from the bottom of the air compressor and installed an elbow and extended out a line with a ball valve inline which will be much easier to drain than reaching under to get  to that little 1/4" screw valve. I also installed a RapidAir system for delivering air through the shop. I put a chuck on a manifold near the compressor. The manifold then runs up the wall to the ceiling where it goes in two directions, one to the air hose reel installed on the ceiling and one back to the built in bench/cabinets on the back wall of my garage. I'll have air in 3 convenient locations! ;o) Rapid Air makes a really nice, very simple and easy-to-install system. For $100 and free shipping from various vendors, I highly recommend it! I also installed a 20" fan in the garage to MOVE the still hot air. A breeze is better that nothin'!

HOBBS Meter - 6.5 hrs

RapidAir System Mounted Behind Compressor

Air Hose Reel Ceiling
Mounted & Connected to RapidAir System

End Unit with Chuck for Air at the Workbench

Here is the RapidAir Kit. An Excellent Product!

Aaahhhh, What a Breeze!
Fan From NorthernTool.com

Sat, June 2 - So, let's get back to work. Garage finalized, tool box completed, Let's resume, shall we? I completed the elevator hinge bracket/bearing assembly by riveting the first rivets of the project! I had to drill out the first 2 rivets (successfully I might add) as I didn't apply enough pressure on the manufacturing head which resulted with rivets sitting proud (not seated fully) by about 1/16". I completed riveting then Cleco'd the assembly to the rear HS spar and enlarged the #30 holes to a #12, per the plans.

HOBBS Meter - 7.7 hrs

HS Rear Spar Hinge Bracket Assembly.
Perty Huh? :o)

Tues, June 12 - I marked the HS rear spar parts, disassembled them then started on the HS front spar assembly. I Cleco'd the HS-710 and HS-714 reinforcement angles to the front spar (HS-702) then match drilled per view A-A on the plans.

HOBBS Meter - 9.3 hrs

HS-702 Front Spar with HS-712 & HS714
Cleco'd & Match Drilled

Wed, June 13 - I removed the angles from the front spar and measured and marked them up, cut and filed the ends then added a 6° bend per the plans. This seems like a really slow process with the amount of time spent on this little section. However, I'm taking them to "measure twice, cut once!". I'm just getting ready ready to cut back the HS-702 front spar pieces as these parts are used for and RV-8 and more material needs to be cut away to work for a -7. So, I've marked them up a bit but am going to stop here to give this some thought as to how I'll cut them, i.e., using snips or band saw then clean up. I'm always leary of snips and getting aluminum stuck between the blades and not cutting the part cleanly. However, these are brand new snips and have a really nice edge! I like the bandsaw for cuts but it's limited to the flexibility of the parts movement on the table. I'll sleep on this.

HOBBS Meter - 11.1 hrs

Thurs, June 14, Flag Day! - I worked on the HS-702 front spar. I made the measurements and cut the flanges back per the plans. NOTE TO NEW BUILDERS: READ AHEAD IN THE DIRECTIONS! I didn't read far enough ahead and ASSUMED I had to read the blueprint to follow what was being called out to be trimmed, cut, bent, etc. READ AHEAD A LITTLE TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE DOING EVERYTHING GIVEN TO YOU! If you don't understand what I'm saying here, e-mail me, I'll go into more detail. After all the cuts and everything, the spar parts don't look bad, having not followed the plans and "winging" it. They could be a little cleaner from the aspect of the flanges not being bent out cleanly enough. I thought I had a crack where I had to make the notch relief but after a little filing, it turned out to be ok. After a little more cleanup and priming, they'll probably turn out pretty nice. Next is dimpling the front spar pieces and countersinking the angle parts. I want to be fresh for those steps, particularly countersinking. I will do a little testing before the actual deed to make sure my skills are up to the task. It's been a while since the workshop performing this task as well and it's a new CS cage to get used to.

Marked and Trimming the HS-710 & HS-714 Angles

Now a Little Cleanup



All Pretty Except for a Little ScotchBrite Touchup



After Bends, Cleco'd & Ready for CS & Dimpling

I'm off for Boston tomorrow (Sunday) for a week. My wife has a training seminar there and we're taking the week before her training to do a little sightseeing. I've never been and am really looking forward to the trip for the history and other things the city has to offer.

This post has been a bit long-winded as I'm trying to catch up. I'll try not to get so behind between posts. Once again, Take Care and Thanks for Reading!

HOBBS Meter - 12.6 hrs