Batteries Recharged

Vacation is over, back to work. Boston was the most excellent vacation I've had in quite some time! It was my first time there and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute in while visiting. We returned late Saturday evening and I got a late start Sunday (6/24) after recouping and trying to get everything in order and ready for work.

Sunday, June 24 - I worked on the forward HS spar by match-drilling, dimpling and countersinking the HS-702, -710, and -714 parts. I worked to get the countersink cage set right on a scrap piece of aluminum. I dimpled the spar to mate with the countersunk spar braces. This takes a little finesse to get it just right. You don't want to take too much and it needs to be right so the parts have a really good fit. After all that, I finally pulled the parts together: HS-404, -405, -706, -707 and -708. I fluted all the ribs to get them ready to cleco together, creating the skeletal assembly. I need to finish the fluting (I'm trying to get the hang of this little chore. In time, I'm sure I'll be able to do it blindfolded). Fluting, for the lay person, is where you put small u-shaped bends between the rivet holes in the ribs. This is necessary because when the ribs are stamped at the factory, they end up with a little bend to them. Fluting "pulls" the part back into a flat shape so that the line of rivet holes on the flanges matches the line of rivet holes in the outer skin. You won't always be perfect doing this but you want to get it as close as possible so there's less work involved in getting your clecos in to hold the skin to the skeleton.

While I was on vacation, I received my torque wrench, tight-fit rivet set and my pencil deburring tools from Isham. I'm still waiting for my angle drill set and thin nose yoke that were back-ordered. I'll call them tomorrow and see what's up with the order. The Boston trip wiped me out. I walked about 10-12 miles while there.

HOBBS Meter - 15.0 hrs

Monday, June 25 - I finished preparing the ribs by fluting and checking the straightness of previously fluted ribs. I needed to straighten a few a little more, after having decided that the previous work was done a little late the previous night and may have been rushed a bit. It took me a little while to get the HS-404 and -405 nose and main ribs laid out with the drill holes. Again, measure twice, cut once. Pay close attention here as you drill two holes in the nose rib and two holes in the main rib. Later, you'll attach these and use them as "templates" to drill through the forward spar into the opposite rib and vice versa. Meaning you'll use the -404 rib as template to drill through the spar and -405 rib and the -405 rib as a template to drill through the spar and -404 rib. Clear as mud? You'll see. From the plans, you mark the upper and lower holes on the -405 rib, and the center 2 holes on the -404 rib. Moving on... Anyway, I was finally successful with this little task. It took a little while to interpret the the instructions and make sure I had the right (correct) parts in the correct location. After drilling the -404 and -405 parts, you're tasked with pulling from your inventory HS-706, -707 and -708 (ribs, 2 each) and marking them for left and right parts. Next, take -702 and -603PP, -706, -707 and -708 and cleco the whole shootin' match together. At this point, some holes are not the right size for clecoing in comparison with the part that they are suposed to be cleco'd with. In this case (head scratch, wheels turning, smoke developing), install your cleco from the other direction through the larger hole into the hole sized for your cleco. Took me a few seconds for the bulb to illuminate with this one. You'll match drill these holes next with a #30 bit.

Left Horizontal Spar Substructure

I stopped here after clecoing and before drilling.

HOBBS Meter - 17.3 hrs

Tuesday, June 26 - I drilled the rib and spar attach holes to #30 except the HS-708 and HS-603PP per the plans (because right now, the parts aren't truely lined up and straight). I un-cleco'd, deburred, re-cleco'd then enlarged the HS-708 and -603PP to a #21. I put in the HS-404 and -405 ribs so I could mark the hole locations using the skin rivet holes (for reference on the part). The next step is to pull the parts back out and using the marks you just made for the "approximate hole location", you can flute between the them. After fluting, you draw a centerline down the rib flanges so you know where to line the holes up to the skin holes. Then you clamp the ribs in place. This lessens the chance of having edge distance issues when riveting later. Your ribs will be centerd almost perfectly on your skin holes. Next will be drilling the attach holes in the HS-404 and -405 using the HS-601PP skin as a drill guide. I'll pick up here next.

HOBBS Meter - 19.6

Wednesday, June 27 - I'm mostly match drilling tonight; left horiz. spar and final drilling the HS-404 and -405 nose and main ribs to the HS-601PP skin and getting everything straight. I only got the upper surface drilling completed. I also attached the HS-710  and -714 reinf. angles to get the main intersection fo the -404/-405 ribs, -710 fwd spar and skin together tight, clamped and match drilled. Seems to look a little sloppy to start but as you cleco, everything comes together pretty well. I'm stopping here (noise abatement in the garage after 10:00) and will resume tomorrow.

HOBBS Meter - 21.0

Thursday, June 28 - I completed the left strabilizer by match drilling HS-601PP skin to the rib/spar assembly. I started the right side by duplicating all steps and procedures of the left side (above). I stopped at the point where I am ready to match drill all remaining holes in the skin to a #40. I'll pick up here tomorrow.

HOBBS Meter - 24.0

Friday, June 29 - I completed the right stabilizer by match drilling  HS-601PP skin to the rib/spar assembly. I match drilled the HS-710 and -714 reinf. angles to the fwd spar. At this point, you remove the skin, giving accessibility to match drill the remaining outboard holes in the reinf. angles to the fwd spar. At this point, you disassemble the remaining left and right horiz. stab skeleton (sub-structure) and debur all holes in the ribs and spars. Next will be cleaning all the edges of the spars/ribs then dimpling them along with the skins.

My plan is to try to post at least every other day. Lately, I've been burning the candle at both ends and trying to pack as much in a day as possible, which limits my being able to post before I retire for the evening. We'll see how things go with that. I'll also work on taking lots more pics of the processes for reference and post them along with the dialog to follow along easier. I've been taking them but not the really detailed kind that I really need. Thanks for your patience. Take Care and Thanks for Reading!

HOBBS Meter - 26.5

Back On Track - Mostly

I left off with the comment that I was going to build the Van's Tool Box project to get back up to speed with riveting. I completed that project and I'm glad I did as I was pretty rusty with my riveting skills. I needed to get the hang of it and get the setting right with the rivet gun. I worked with several riveting techniques including using the pneumatic rivet squeezer (I love this one), bucking by using and getting familiar with all the bars in the tool kit including a tungsten bar, and rivet sets, one being the tight fit (spring loaded) rivet set. I had to send this little gem back because the mechanism was sticking. I'm still waiting for that to come back from Isham, along with my inch-pound torque wrench. The little ball bearing that holds a socket on popped out along with the little, teeny weeny spring. I couldn't get it to stay back in so I sent that back as well.

The Van's Took Box Project - Parts All Layed Out

Tool Box Project - Bottom Riveted and Top Cleco'd

All Complete! Read Directions Very Carefully,
Meaning Read Ahead Sometimes.
It'll Save Some Headache Later.

Sending the Torque Wrench & Tight Fit Rivet Set
Back for Repair or Replacement.

Thurs, May 31 - So, after the tool box was finished, I resumed the HS construction by attaching HS-708 to the rear spar assembly. I Cleco'd the HS-412PP and HS-413PP elevator hinge brackets to the rear spar assembly and match drilled them per the plans. I assembled the elevator hing assembly bracket together and match drilled it as well. I stopped her for the night.

Token Builder Picture
Working the HS Rear Spar Assembly

The VA-146 Hinge Bearing Being Primed

Ok, speaking of priming, I'll give a little dissertation on priming. This is what I researched, discovered and went with. I did a lot of research, what's best, rattle can or 2-part epoxy. I looked at a lot of builder sites as well as EAA forums and VAF. Then I checked my notes and I remembered what Jack Dueck said during the EAA RV Builders Workshop. He's built and flys an RV-4. Here is Jack's take on corrosion protection. Here is a little Bio on Jack and his activities at AirVenture 2012. He's a BIG proponet of rattle-can primers, very easy, effective and no cleanup!

I live in the arid, Antelope Valley in the Mojave Desert of Southern California. It's pretty dry here. I could probably go the route of the GA manufacturers and not prime inside. However, I figure using a rattle-can, self-etching primer is still better than no coat at all and if, down the line, I decide to sell my baby, anybody intetested in having a plane with internal protection will still have that benefit. That said, I'm going with SEM Self-Etching primer. It's a bit costly at $18+ a can. But I understand that I'll be using approximatly a dozen cans for the project. I thought of getting more but the shelf life of the product is only a year so I'll get what I need when I need it. I tried the Rust-O-Leum brand and was disappointed with how it turned out after drying. It dries pretty quickly, is a little heavy when it goes on and a little rough after drying. I tried the SEM on a sample piece of aluminum and was really pleased with the fingernail scratch test. I'm sold. The picture above is of the Rust-O-Leum brand. You'll see pictures later of the SEM brand. I sent an e-mail to Jack confirming the preparation for a project for priming. I inquired about Alumiprep, et al, and Alodine and this is what Jack had to say: "Yes, alumniprep and alodine is overkill.  All you need to do is clean the part with acetone or mek and then spray it with the self etching primer.  Protect yourself during the cleaning process with latex or rubber gloves.  You'll have good results and good corrosion protection.". I understand that even with priming in this manner, you'd be adding between 5 and 10 pounds of weight over all. I can settle for that.

I finished with all the other little projects in the garage, installing the air compressor, air lines, air hose reel, and a little space rearrangement. I pulled the manufacturer drain from the bottom of the air compressor and installed an elbow and extended out a line with a ball valve inline which will be much easier to drain than reaching under to get  to that little 1/4" screw valve. I also installed a RapidAir system for delivering air through the shop. I put a chuck on a manifold near the compressor. The manifold then runs up the wall to the ceiling where it goes in two directions, one to the air hose reel installed on the ceiling and one back to the built in bench/cabinets on the back wall of my garage. I'll have air in 3 convenient locations! ;o) Rapid Air makes a really nice, very simple and easy-to-install system. For $100 and free shipping from various vendors, I highly recommend it! I also installed a 20" fan in the garage to MOVE the still hot air. A breeze is better that nothin'!

HOBBS Meter - 6.5 hrs

RapidAir System Mounted Behind Compressor

Air Hose Reel Ceiling
Mounted & Connected to RapidAir System

End Unit with Chuck for Air at the Workbench

Here is the RapidAir Kit. An Excellent Product!

Aaahhhh, What a Breeze!
Fan From NorthernTool.com

Sat, June 2 - So, let's get back to work. Garage finalized, tool box completed, Let's resume, shall we? I completed the elevator hinge bracket/bearing assembly by riveting the first rivets of the project! I had to drill out the first 2 rivets (successfully I might add) as I didn't apply enough pressure on the manufacturing head which resulted with rivets sitting proud (not seated fully) by about 1/16". I completed riveting then Cleco'd the assembly to the rear HS spar and enlarged the #30 holes to a #12, per the plans.

HOBBS Meter - 7.7 hrs

HS Rear Spar Hinge Bracket Assembly.
Perty Huh? :o)

Tues, June 12 - I marked the HS rear spar parts, disassembled them then started on the HS front spar assembly. I Cleco'd the HS-710 and HS-714 reinforcement angles to the front spar (HS-702) then match drilled per view A-A on the plans.

HOBBS Meter - 9.3 hrs

HS-702 Front Spar with HS-712 & HS714
Cleco'd & Match Drilled

Wed, June 13 - I removed the angles from the front spar and measured and marked them up, cut and filed the ends then added a 6° bend per the plans. This seems like a really slow process with the amount of time spent on this little section. However, I'm taking them to "measure twice, cut once!". I'm just getting ready ready to cut back the HS-702 front spar pieces as these parts are used for and RV-8 and more material needs to be cut away to work for a -7. So, I've marked them up a bit but am going to stop here to give this some thought as to how I'll cut them, i.e., using snips or band saw then clean up. I'm always leary of snips and getting aluminum stuck between the blades and not cutting the part cleanly. However, these are brand new snips and have a really nice edge! I like the bandsaw for cuts but it's limited to the flexibility of the parts movement on the table. I'll sleep on this.

HOBBS Meter - 11.1 hrs

Thurs, June 14, Flag Day! - I worked on the HS-702 front spar. I made the measurements and cut the flanges back per the plans. NOTE TO NEW BUILDERS: READ AHEAD IN THE DIRECTIONS! I didn't read far enough ahead and ASSUMED I had to read the blueprint to follow what was being called out to be trimmed, cut, bent, etc. READ AHEAD A LITTLE TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE DOING EVERYTHING GIVEN TO YOU! If you don't understand what I'm saying here, e-mail me, I'll go into more detail. After all the cuts and everything, the spar parts don't look bad, having not followed the plans and "winging" it. They could be a little cleaner from the aspect of the flanges not being bent out cleanly enough. I thought I had a crack where I had to make the notch relief but after a little filing, it turned out to be ok. After a little more cleanup and priming, they'll probably turn out pretty nice. Next is dimpling the front spar pieces and countersinking the angle parts. I want to be fresh for those steps, particularly countersinking. I will do a little testing before the actual deed to make sure my skills are up to the task. It's been a while since the workshop performing this task as well and it's a new CS cage to get used to.

Marked and Trimming the HS-710 & HS-714 Angles

Now a Little Cleanup



All Pretty Except for a Little ScotchBrite Touchup



After Bends, Cleco'd & Ready for CS & Dimpling

I'm off for Boston tomorrow (Sunday) for a week. My wife has a training seminar there and we're taking the week before her training to do a little sightseeing. I've never been and am really looking forward to the trip for the history and other things the city has to offer.

This post has been a bit long-winded as I'm trying to catch up. I'll try not to get so behind between posts. Once again, Take Care and Thanks for Reading!

HOBBS Meter - 12.6 hrs