Left Elevator Complete

Sunday, August 4

Today was pretty straightforward, roll the leading edges of both elevators. Simple enough task. I only got one done today. :o( It seems a pretty simple task for 3 hours on one elevator. I was really taking my time to try and to a better job than I performed on the rudder. I think I succeeded. The left one turned out pretty nicely though. I only rolled one section at a time as trying to do them all at one time would have required me to be the Hulk!

I mentioned in an earlier post that I had bunged this elevator by leaving it hanging on one of the garage rafters then opening the door all the way, forgetting about the silly elevator hanging on for dear life and watching it to its best to land softly. HA! DUH!! Well, I decided the side of the skin with the major hangar rash was going to be the side that tucked in the inside of he roll. In other words, roll it first then it's brother would stay on the outside being riveted to the outside of the rash. This effort worked perfectly and covered up the rash pretty well. After forming the edge of the rash side, I got to work with my 3/4" steel pipe. Everything rolled pretty well. I think I would prefer to use the 3/4" pipe where I did toward the narrower section (outboard) of the elevator then transition to a 1" pipe on the wider part (inboard) of the elevator. This way the bends would line up a little better without having to do so much hand squeezing and manipulating.

I got everything (less the right elevator) done to my satisfaction. Additionally, I realized the rod bearings I had left to insert were not quite right. If you're at this stage, NOTE that the upper 2 rod bearings on the rudder are part number MD3614M and the lower bearing is part number MD3616M, a slightly larger size than the other two. So, I pulled the smaller -14M from the rudder bottom and put the larger -16M in and torqued it down. Now I had the 4 rod bearings (MD3614M) remaining and installed them into the elevators with their jam nuts and torqued them down. Even though the parts look the same, give them all scrutiny to make sure you're putting the right parts in the right locations.

Following are pictures of the left elevator rolling, riveting and completion.

Outboard Section, First Side Rolled

Outboard Second Side Rolled, Taped Into Place
& Clecoed. First Rivet Set

Outboard Section, Left Elevator Complete

Working Inboard with the Next Section

First Side Rolled. This was the Road Rash Part

A Better View of the Hangar Rash

This is a Better View of the Pipe in Place & Taped

Let's Roll! I Didn't Get Any Pix of the Roll Itself

The Start of the Taping to Get The Edges in Place

Zeroing in on the Hole Lineup for a Cleco

Once a Cleco is in Place, It Makes it a Little
Easier for the Next One to be Placed

Now to Just Work it Down the Line Until All
Holes are Fastened

All Clecos in Place with Tape to Help. Ready for
Drilling, Deburring & Setting the Rivets

This is What the Pop Rivets Look Like When
Set on the Inside.

All Done! The Inboard Section Looks a Bit
Skewed. I'll Massage This to be More Appealing

Now I just need to get to the right elevator and roll its edges, then install them on the horizontal stabilizer and check the swing, connect them in the middle and work with the counterweights to make them balanced. I love this project!

That's all for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 3.0  HOBBS Meter - 144.8

Trim Tab Complete!

Okay, okay. I may have been a little harsh in my previous post regarding builders being overly picky and meticulous when it comes to the trim tab. I know that I'd like the perfect plane, in every aspect. Those little blemishes that occur along the way are what make our planes ours and very unique to us. I had much more difficulty with my trim tab than I'd expected. I think the issue is that the directions could be written a bit better with regular updates. Maybe this isn't the most cost effective way to do things at Van's, but it would help builders who succeed us with less headache. For instance, particularly on the trim tab, noting what areas should be dimpled and countersink BEFORE even bending the trim tab would be MOST beneficial and save on some time and aggravation. I know it would have for me. Ask me how I know this. Maybe I should start reading the sections entirely before embarking on a part. At times this isn't feasible, such as when you read before you build, sometimes it doesn't make sense as you're reading.

Masking for Priming Before Riveting Horns

Notice Anything? Yep, I Forgot to DIMPLE!
This Also Shows Rivet Sizes for Different Holes

Previously, I deburred, dimpled, countersunk and primed all the trim tab parts. I started with clecoing the trim tab back together. The directions tell you this then to rivet the bottom of the skin to the bottom of the flange and the trim tab horns. Well, you can't entirely cleco the trim tab and accomplish this. I needed to leave the upper skin unfastened to get either a squeezer or a bucking bar in the space. I riveted the horns and flange all in place and only had to rework 3 rivets.

I don't think I followed the directions in the right order but I basically got the hinge positioned in the previous steps, drilled and clecoed to the trim tab. Next, I positioned the trim tab on the elevator and marked the hinge position on the elevator laterally, figuring about 1/8" between the bent tabs areas. Next, I removed the forward part of the hinge and clamped it in place on the elevator. I started drilling on the outboard hole, then cleco, then drill every other hole, cleco then went back and finished drilling the rest of the holes. Next was marking the inboard skin edge on the hinge then trimming that area to match the skin when installed into position. I clecoed the forward part of the hinge back on the elevator and connected the trim tab with the hinge rod. Once this is in position, I used a small squeeze clamp to hold the trim tab in line with the elevator. This step is where alignment is needed to get the tab to follow the line of the trailing edge of the elevator and to tweak the tab to get it straight and follow the same line on the up and down axis. Per the directions, I clamped a piece of angel aluminum to the trailing edge of the elevator and aligned the tab to follow the same line and angle. Once it was straight, I put the clamp in position to hold it to the elevator then drilled the three #30 holes for the pull rivets on the bent tabs and put a couple clecos in. Next, I carefully removed the hinge rod and riveted the top of the tab with the hinge in place. After that, I put the pull rivets (CS4-4) into the bent tabs. Then I needed to figure where the rivets would go on the other end of the trim tab so as not to interfere with the rivets needed on the elevators bent tabs. I put the trim tab back on to mark where I would put those rivet so they were offset from each other.

Setting Position for Tweaking the Trim Tab

Marking Bent Tab Area for Pull Rivets

Next, I riveted the forward part of the hinge elevator and VIOLA! The trim tab is is done!!! Directions tell you that the pin/rod for the hinge is not long enough and that you'll get one that fits the way it should for bending and positioning in place to be wire tied to the elevator. That one will come with the fuselage kit. I need to make a punch list of things I need to go back an complete. Up to this point, there hasn't been much. Things like this hinge rod, torque sealing certain nuts and bolts as well as any other things that don't get checked off the direction list right away.

Trim Tab Complete, Except for the Hinge Rod

Another Shot of the Completed Trim Tab

I agree that the trim tab is very small, but a major pain in the @$$! It does take patience. If you're getting frustrated, STEP BACK, TAKE A BREATH! Just go slow. This thing doesn't and WON'T be done tomorrow, at least not at this stage. While riveting my hinge to the trim tab, I didn't have my squeeze set right and bent one of the hinge sleeves. That took 10 minutes or so to get worked out. But turned out fine. I put another marred spot in the skin while bucking one of the hard-to-get-to rivets. The bar was set funny inside and I didn't have the rivet gun on very well. Needless to say, the skin is quite ugly in that spot.

The Marred Area From the Bucking Bar

The Same Area, Different Angle. It Has A
Tin Can Effect if Pushed From Both Sides

If it turns out that I'm just not that happy with it, maybe I'll make another later. It's pretty straight and true. I saw another builder talk about the flange inside not being very well fabricated and it causing one side of the skin to bow when pulled into position. Mine is doing that as well. There's a bit of a bow on one side and pretty straight on the other. I'm going to leave it alone for now.

I semi-installed the trim tab motor to get a feel for how the push rod will be positioned when it's in it's final position. There will be some trimming needed for clearance where the rod exits the elevator skin. It shouldn't be a big issue, a little fine trimming, filing and cleaning. I'll probably work the fiberglass tips later with the other fiberglass. I want/need to take the fabrication course that the EAA offers (SportAir Workshops) before I venture into uncharted territory. I'm not sure if I'm going with the seamless look or screwing the tips on. The latter gives better accessibility for any fixes, changes or repairs. The seamless gives a nicer look as well as better waterproofing for the inside of the wings and empennage. I'm going to weigh the options and read what VAF members and other bloggers have done to see what the consensus is. Next will be rolling the leading edges of the left and right elevators. Fun stuff... NOT! Well, it kinda is. =8^P

That's all for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 5.9  HOBBS Meter - 141.8

... and the Building Resumes!

Sunday, July 28

Finally, back to work! Today, I started back on the trim tab. I put it in the bending brake last session and I went too far. I tried carefully to bend it back out, no easy task. I managed though. There are a total of 4 tabs (2 on each end) that require bending 91°. Make sure you pay close attention here. The lower tab is bent FIRST, then the upper tab. This way, you won't get water leaking or draining into the tab in the rain. When you start this process, the plans show you starting with the whole trim tab upside down. It makes it a little confusing. In this case, you bend the top tab (lower) down first, then the bottom (upper) tab up second. You'll get the picture with the inboard section as there are 3 rivet holes on one tab that need to be on the outside when finished bending. Do both ends the same. I read of many builders ordering an extra trim tab set just because most use the first one as practice and aren't happy with the outcome. C'mon! It's just a trim tab. Once it gets sanded, cleaned, primed and painted, I don't think they really turn out that bad. I know, there are some perfectionists out there. I'm one too. You can always order a kit later and do it again if it's really that bad. I think mine turned out pretty well. I may have bent a little too much of the tabs on one end, but I think it'll be fine.

Outboard End of Trim Tab, Decent Bending

Inboard End of Trim Tab. A Little Too Much Metal Bent

Basically, I took a piece of 1/2" particle board about 7"x3", figured the angle of my trim tab with the spar in place, which is right about 10°. Then I cut it at that angle. I'm not too fond of my small, cheap, name-brand band saw's ability to cut a nice, straight line. So, I used a piece of 1/4" metal, used for my dimpling in tight spaces, and clamped it to the board on the angle of my cut and used a small hand saw against the edge of the metal and made a real nice cut. In retrospect, it doesn't matter what angle it's cut. Basically, it just needs to be greater than 10° but less than that which would open the trim tab up too far. You can use the distance that when the end tabs are bent, they're separated by 1/8" to 1/4". If you follow the 10° method, make sure to leave a small enough angle at the trailing edge to fit into the space of the trim tab. I used double-sided Scotch tape on both sides of the inside block and a strip on the outside for the outer block. This keeps things mostly in place. I should have put the whole assembly on a non-slip piece of mat on top of the work surface to prevent slipping but it "slipped" my mind. Haha, bad joke. Another thought would also be to use some tape on the work surface to hold the entire trim tab in place. I clamped the whole block assembly to the bench with ratchet clamps as well as clamping the trim tab on the leading edge to the edge of the work bench. Let the bending commence. You want to turn your pressure down on your rivet gun so you don't go too wild and bend the crap out of the tabs. Use a block of wood to get started on the bend, per the plans. Once you get the tab closer to its final position, you can use just your gun to flatten it out pretty nicely, all along the edge, back and forth until you're satisfied. Yes, you'll notice here that this is the same exercise used on the left elevator. I previously used foam tape. BAD idea. Don't go this route. It's is too thick and gives too much and is a royal pain to remove from your jig parts. It was a bit overkill. Just follow the directions for preparing and you should do fine.

Next, I cleco'd the trim tab spar (E-607PP) to the bottom surface of the tab skin. Then I got the electric trim tab motor trim tab horns (E-617EEPP-1 and E-618EEPP-1), clamped them together, used a clevis pin in the holes for alignment and clecoed them as a whole part to the skin. Needed are a couple holes drilled for one of the horn parts as the skin is without. That's why it's necessary to clamp the 2 horn parts together, using them as a template, of sorts. Pretty simple here. After fitting the parts in place, I match drilled the holes through the trim tab horns.

Spar in Place

Elect. Trim Tab Motor Control Horns in Place

Another View of the Trim Tab Horns Connected as One

I stopped here for the night as the next step is working with the piano hinge. I wanted to do a little research on this one. I'd certainly like to get this right on the first try.

Day Total: 1.9 hrs  HOBBS Meter - 132.2 hrs

Tuesday, July 30

Tonight, I started working on a few bends and dings that mysteriously showed up on the leading edge of the left elevator. Okay, I'll confess. I had put the elevator up out of the way, hanging the counterweight end on one of the rafters. I had the garage door open half way for air and later decided to open the door all the way. I wasn't paying attention and the door pushed the elevator off the rafter and bent a couple of areas along the leading edge. So, I took a little time to straighten them out. The edge hasn't been rolled yet, making it pretty easy to ding the edges up a bit. I was able to straighten the worst offenders pretty well. There were only about 3 or 4 issues. The elevator itself looks pretty straight and true so I don't anticipate any issues with it later. It'll be interesting to see the leading edge after it's rolled and riveted. I'll try to post a couple pictures after the roll.

The Smallest of All Dings. Needs a Bit More Work

Ding #2. I Hope This Cleans Up Better After Edge Rolling

Ding #3 More Outboard of #2

The Top of Ding #3. I Hope This Ends Up Rolling Ok

Next on the list was to work the hinge for the trim tab. I checked a couple other builder logs for info. Interestingly, the few I looked at didn't have much in the way of information. So I decided to follow Van's plans the best I could. Sometimes they can be a bit confusing. I have a habit of over-thinking things at times. It took me a while to comprehend that the hinge DOES NOT go between the skin and spars. I don't know why I had this in my head, but once things "clicked", it was much easier to move forward. Over-thinking I guess! The hinge rivets to the innermost area to the skin and spars.

Hinge Measured, Marked & Clamped in Place

Showing 3/8" From Rivet to Inboard Hinge Edge

Trim Tab Hinge Drilled & Cleco'd in Place

I started by marking the hinge at 1/4" in from the trailing edge of the trim tab side of the hinge the length of the hinge. I did the same for the elevator side as well. This line is used as a site line through the rivet holes for alignment and distance. Then, I made a mark on the hinge for the area that would be removed (waste) on the inboard edge. That distance is 3/8" from the left-most rivet hole to the end of the hinge on the trim tab side, per the plans. After trimming the hinge, I clamped it in place on the bottom of the trim tab spar, making sure the site line is centered in the rivet line. Then I match drilled the holes starting with the inboard hole first, clecoing it then drilling every other hole and clecoing while removing the clamps along the way. Then I went back to finish the rest of the holes. I then put the other half of the hinge back together with its mate. The next step is to take apart the trim tab assembly, machine countersink the spar and dimple the trim tab upper holes and work more on the control horns. Stopping here tonight.

Day Total: 2.0  HOBBS Meter - 134.2

Wednesday, July 31

Tonight saw drilling the rest of the holes in the trim tab, countersinking and dimpling the trim tab spar. Next was to disassemble and the usual "Lather, Rinse, Repeat" with deburring, dimpling and priming. Not too much tonight, just enough to keep busy on the project, KPR! (Keep Pounding Rivets), and... edge finishing, deburring, dimpling and priming. KPR for short. =8^)

That's all for now. Take Care & Thanks For Reading!

Day Total: 1.7  HOBBS Meter - 135.9